Broderie Anglaise, also known as English Embroidery, is a simple kind of White Embroidery. True patterns for this type of embroidery are outlines of various sized holes, arranged to make floral geometrical devices.
The painting, Broken Vows, painted by Philip Calderon in 1857 provides a wonderful likeness of Broderie Anglaise and how it was used in clothing at that time. The close-up of the cuff shows the great detail that makes this a truly beautiful type of embroidery.
To work: Run embroidery cotton round the outlines, then piece the holes with a stiletto, or cut with scissors and turn the edges under and sew over with embroidery cotton. The art in the work consists in cutting and making all the holes that should be the same size to match, and in taking the sewing over stitches closely and regularly, as shown in Fig. 1, below.
When used as an edging, a scalloped or vandyked border is worked in Buttonhole Stitch, as shown in Fig. 2, the outer lines of the border being run in the same manner as the holes, and the center frequently padded with strands of embroidery cotton.
Do not cut away the waste linen outside the Buttonhole until the work has been once washed, as it will then wear longer, and there is less fear of cutting the embroidery cotton in the process. When English Embroidery is used for an insertion, it requires no edging.
The work is adapted for trimming washing dresses or underlinen.